Wine reviews

June 2024

The 2021 World's End Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard from the famous site in Oakville is a burly, towering, and massively structured wine with fragrant Bing cherry, rose petals, and dark-toasted oak spices. Full-bodied and endowed with a plethora of firm, mineral-rich tannins that are superfine and palate-coating, and set the stage for loads of dark Kirsch fruit notes. This is a hefty To Kalon wine, made to impress in its youth, and while it seems to have the tannin structure to age, the ripeness of the fruit suggests early drinking is best. Winemaker Jonathan Maltus is best known for his Le Dôme wine from Chateau Teyssier in Saint-Émilion. - JC