Wine reviews
Moving to the barrel samples, winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown commented that how an estate handled the Labor Day heat wave was more important than the fires, and I can certainly say they’ve succeeded admirably. Starting with the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon GIII Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard, it offers a full-bodied, ripe, sweetly fruited, even flamboyant style as well as loads of spice-laced red and blue fruits, incense, and subtle floral notes. It’s balanced, with fine tannins and a great finish. – JD
A barrel sample, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon GIII is deep purple-black in color and opens with wild blueberries, black raspberries and dried herbs with hints of dusty soil and black pepper. The palate is full-bodied, concentrated and firm with nice purity and freshness, finishing long. – LPB
An extrovert, with bold cassis, plum sauce and boysenberry compote flavors augmented by violet, mint and warm black licorice notes. Offers a flashy, toasty finish that pulls everything together while avoiding the rustic, brambly note typical of the vintage. Best from 2021 through 2033. 588 cases made. – J.M.
Yields at Schrader are down a massive 50%, yet what they put in bottle is certainly brilliant. Starting with their 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard, it’s one of the plusher, more rounded, sexy wines in the lineup and is loaded with cassis and assorted blue fruits as well as notes of white flowers, violets, and tobacco. Fullbodied, concentrated, and opulent on the palate, it’s one big mouthful of pleasure bent fruit that’s hard to match in the vintage. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 20 months in 90% new oak, it’s going to put a smile on everyone’s face any time over the coming 20 years or so. – JD