Wine reviews

December 2011

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Clone 6 is a relatively understated wine from this part of the To Kalon vineyard. A rich, expressive bouquet melds into layers of fruit in this understated, classy wine. Floral notes reappear on the finish. The Clone 6 is going to be very hard to resist in its youth. It is sexy and totally sensual from start to finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. This is a dazzling set of wines from Tor Kenward and his long-time winemaker Jeff Ames. Frankly, I could have spent an entire afternoon delving further into these fabulous wines. The 2009 Cabernets capture the best qualities of this refined, polished vintage, but the 2010s, which I tasted from barrel, are potentially even better.