Wine reviews
Schrader’s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon GIII Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard bursts from the glass with explosive dark blue and black fruit, exotic spices, flowers and menthol. There is an inner energy and tension in the GIII that makes this bottling stand out. Readers will want to give the 2010 a few years in the cellar, but it is strikingly beautiful even today. Over time, as I followed it, the wine continued to open up in the glass and put on considerable weight. In 2010, the GIII is a true standout. The GIII is clone 337 from the F block. Anticipated maturity: 2016- 2030. This is a fabulous set of wines from Fred Schrader, his wife Carol and their long-time winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown. The 2010 Cabernets are big, huge wines that capture the essence of this great Napa Valley vintage. As always, the wines are made with no SO2 at the crusher, natural yeasts and minimal rackings. The four single-clone bottlings from the To-Kalon vineyard are essentially essays that provide notable insight into the clonal differences within the various parcels in this famous site. I also tasted all of the 2011s, but those wines are still embryonic stages rather than final blends, so it is hard to provide meaningful commentary at this stage. Thus far, I have tasted the 2011s twice, and both times I have been struck by the new Las Piedras bottling, which personally I am very much looking forward to following. Sadly, there will be no GIII in 2011, as conditions were just too difficult. - AG
A powerful yet graceful Cabernet that’s big, rich, chewy and chunky, with tiers of mocha, dark berry, spice and cedar flavors. This packs a wallop and isn’t shy about tannins, so best to be patient. Best from 2014 through 2030. From California—J.L.
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon GIII Clone 337 Block F George III Vineyard (barrel sample) comes across as quite plush, yet a bit closed in on itself, hinting at what is to come in the rest of the lineup. Dark fruit, graphite and licorice are all supported by clean veins of minerality. The beautifully delineated, vibrant finish is pure 2010. I especially like the brightness and polish of the finish here, which is quite different than the 2009. This is the clonal base for the GIII bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. I tasted the Schrader 2009s and 2010s twice this year, about five months apart, and that time has done wonders for the wines. The Schrader Cabernets are big, bold wines that nevertheless show remarkable detail and transparency to site, as is evidenced by the five separate bottlings from Andy Beckstoffer’s To Kalon vineyard in Oakville. These are essentially single-clone (and often single-block) wines that seek to highlight the unique qualities of the various Cabernet clones planted within the vineyard. I tasted the 2009s from bottle and the 2010s from barrel. Readers should note that the 2010s I tasted were base blends for each of the wines, rather than fully finished blends. I have a slight preference for the 2010s, as they are more nuanced, perfumed and finessed, while the 2009s are just a bit more similar to each other throughout the range, reflecting the nature of the years themselves. Beyond that, it really comes down to personal preference when choosing one of these wines. The RBS is the most aromatic and detailed, and in my view, complete of the wines. Readers who prefer a more overt, opulent, fruit-driven style of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon will gravitate to the Old Sparky or the Schrader. Either way, it is hard to go wrong with any of these Cabernets. The wines are made in a fairly non-interventionalist style, with no SO2 added at crush, minimal rackings and no fining or filtration prior to bottling. Everything starts in the vineyard, where Brown and his team leave one cluster (minus wings) per shoot. The 2009s were aged in 100% new French oak barrels, 80-90% Darnajou the rest Taransaud.
A powerful yet graceful Cabernet that's big, rich, chewy and chunky, with tiers of mocha, dark berry, spice and cedar flavors. This packs a wallop and isn't shy about tannins, so best to be patient. Best from 2014 through 2030. 110 cases made. – JL
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard, made from clone 337, had a total production of 110 cases (compared to 260+ for the 2012). Its gorgeous nose reveals aromas of crème de cassis, blueberries, raspberries, vanillin and notions of cedarwood as well as incense. Deep and full-bodied with fabulous purity, a hallmark of all these wines, this spectacular 2010 has plenty of structure, but the fruit intensity and richness largely obscure the wine’s tannic profile. This beauty will be drinkable in several years and keep for 30 years. Year-in and year-out this is one of the most interesting as well as fascinating group of wines and projects in Napa Valley. First, Schrader has two committed owners, secondly a brilliant winemaker in Thomas Brown, and thirdly, one of the true first-growth vineyard sites in all of Napa Valley, the famed Beckstoffer-owned To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville. There is also a new Beckstoffer vineyard in Oakville called Las Piedras. Additionally, they source grapes from the Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard in Rutherford, several miles north of Oakville. In top vintages, Schrader’s Beckstoffer Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines can be as good as money can buy ... anywhere in the world. The Schraders are essentially giving consumers a microscopic, intense study of the differences between clones from one particular vineyard. Production levels range from 100-200 cases to as high as 400 cases. The total production is well under 1,800 cases of wine, even in such generous vintages as 2012. These offerings, which are aged 18-20 months in a majority of Darnajou French barrels with some Taransaud, are much more similar than dissimilar, but I think long-term aging will begin to reveal differences, and that’s the objective with these separate cuvees. All of these wines will keep for a minimum of 25-40 years. This is probably an overload of information for the casual drinker who just wants a great Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, but for the wine geeks, this kind of clonal study is fascinating. The cooler than normal 2010 vintage produced a group of wines with small production levels. The 2011s came from a small yielding vintage as well. Winemaker Thomas Brown and the Schraders had to deal with two large rainy scenarios that were followed by foggy conditions in early to mid-October that resulted in the formation of botrytis in the grape bunches. They seem to have come through this with flying colors in several of their cuvees, which are candidates for the wines of the vintage. The 2012s enjoyed an incredibly long hang time, and although the year was warm, there was only one serious heat spike that came at a time (in July where the temperature hit 105 degrees) that was not threatening to the vineyards. Thomas Brown thought the number of days between flowering and the veraison (when the color of the grapes changes from green to dark purple) was around 65-70 days, an unusually long time that bodes well for flavor and tannin development in the grape bunches. The 2012s are all huge, richly fruity wines that were primary when I tasted them. For that reason, I will keep my notes short, but there appears to be at least three candidates for perfect scores after another 8-9 months in new oak. -RP