Wine reviews
The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard’s opaque purple color is followed by abundant aromas of blueberries, mulberries, and graphite/lead pencil shavings, a full-bodied mouthfeel, a rich, concentrated, layered texture and moderate tannin in the finish. While accessible, this beauty should continue to age for 15-20 years. -RP
A rich, powerful expression of Cabernet, intense, focused, deep and layered, exhibiting dark berry, espresso, cedar and black licorice flavors that firm nicely on the finish where the tannins provide traction. Drink now through 2024. 445 cases made. —J.L.
Realm’s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard is rich, layered and seamless. The 2010 has less of the overt sexiness of the 2009, but I suspect that will develop in time. Today the 2010 is implosive, rich and intense. Firm tannins frame the fruit on the powerful, incisive finish. If I had to choose one wine that captures the Realm style at its very finest, it would be the Dr. Crane. The 2010 is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. (Not yet released) Realm continues their remarkable ascent into the top tier of Napa Valley producers. Juan Mercado and Benoit Touquette, along with consultant Michel Rolland, have done a fabulous job with these wines. Realm has recently moved into a space at Chateau Boswell, which should give them the space and technical resources to keep improving on what is already a remarkable level of quality. The 2010s are terrific, while the 2011s are highly promising. Readers should note that all of the 2011s I tasted are 100% Cabernet Sauvignons at this stage, but the final blends could end up including a small amount of Petit Verdot. I also had a chance to revisit the 2009 Farella, To Kalon and Dr. Crane, all of which are more than living up the my lofty praise from last year. The Realm wines are big, full-bodied and totally luscious, but also remarkably balanced. - AG