Wine reviews
I’ll keep my notes on the 2009s brief, but as one can see, these are among the superstars of the vintage. I do not envision any of them meriting a perfect score, which will finally break the trifecta of perfection for the CCS, but these will all be mid to upper-90 point wines because they are that good. As Thomas Brown explained to me, it was a year of higher yields, cooler temperatures, and virtually all of the vineyards were harvested before the deluge arrived in mid-October. The 2009s are all made from the same Clones as the 2008s. I thought the three top cuvees were the T6, CCS and Schrader, but the RBS looks profound as well. The only wine that is perhaps lighter than expected is the George III. The 2009s should be more evolved, gorgeous to drink out of the gate, and last for 15-20 years as opposed to 30-40.
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon RBS Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard comes across as dark, plush and inviting, but with greater inner focus and minerality than some of the other wines here. Graphite, smoke, tar and licorice are some of the notes that wrap around the intense, juicy finish. I especially admire the way the RBS grows in the glass as it turns more explosive over time, yet never loses its more refined shades of expression. The RBS is 100% clone 337 from the B1 and B2 blocks. According to winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown, it is the addition of fruit from B2 (new this year) that gives the 2009 much of its personality. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.
Deeply extracted, with dense, ripe tannins that are mouthcoating. Intense dried dark berry, currant, melted chocolate, roasted herb and sage give this an expansive range of flavors, ending with chewy tannins. Best from 2014 through 2032. 410 cases made. –JL