Wine reviews
From one of my favorite sites in all of Napa Valley (first shown to me by the irrepressible duo of Lisa and Les Behrens who vineyard designated it) is the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard. Crushed rock, blueberry and a distinctive earthy component are present in this deep ruby/purple-colored 2008. With layers of fruit and full-bodied richness as well as elegance and intensity, it represents a hypothetical version of a Bordeaux Graves and a classic Napa Cabernet. It will be even better in 3-4 years and should last for two decades or more. A new discovery for me, Myriad Cellars’ offerings all performed well in my tastings. Three 2008 Cabernet Sauvignons were presented and once again, the top wines of this vintage give the great 2007s a run for their money (which was hard to imagine 12 months ago). Obviously, the tiny crop has added a level of concentration and the tannins have mellowed beautifully over the last year. The two 2008 Syrahs are seemingly an exercise in 10% whole cluster fermentations versus 100% whole cluster.
The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard saturates the palate with masses of super-ripe, opulent fruit. This head spinning, viscerally thrilling wine possesses striking inner perfume and tons of richness in a full-throttle style that is highly expressive. Elements of ripeness and classicism are beautifully balanced here. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. These are the first wines I have tasted from Myriad Cellars, Mike Smith’s new project. I have a slight preference for 2008 versus 2009 when it comes to the Cabernets, as the 2008s seem to have a touch more delineation and structure than the 2009s, which come across as a bit more forward. Both vintages are going to be a lot of fun to watch over the coming years