Wine reviews
The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Old Sparky (a magnums-only blend of clone 4 from two separate blocks, clone 6, and clone 337) is another perfect wine. Ridiculous levels of concentration, without heaviness, extraordinary opulence, and amazing exuberance and flamboyance are found in this beauty along with abundant notes of creme de cassis, cedarwood, spring flowers, lead pencil shavings, and a hint of hot pebbles. It also displays outstanding purity, depth, and full-bodied power. There is a strong undercurrent of minerality in all of these wines which sets 2007 apart from other rich vintages such as 2002. The Old Sparky should also age effortlessly for three decades or more. Are readers totally confused about the multiple clonal experiments and single block Schrader Cabernet Sauvignons? All of them emanate from the Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard with one exception, the George III Vineyard in Rutherford. Schrader’s mission statement is essentially one where their 30-year leases on vineyard parcels give them the ability to present a specific clonal study of Cabernet Sauvignon from three highly desired clones (4, 6, and 337) grown within a single vineyard. Perhaps this is more than most people want or need to know. The bottom line is that with their production averages about 1,600 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon, the wines do have subtle differences, but most importantly, all of them are extraordinary in quality – among the finest wines one could possibly find in the world. Fred Schrader and his wife, Carol, hired Thomas Brown to make these wines. Their 2006s were among the finest wines of that vintage, their 2008s look to be among the top wines I tasted in that year, and the 2007s, universally acknowledged as a great vintage for Napa, are spectacular. All of these cuvees are aged in 100% new French oak, mostly Darnajou barrels with a sprinkling of Taransaud
The 2007s are also extraordinary efforts. There is probably less difference between the 2006s and 2007s than at many other wineries simply because the 2006s from Schrader are such amazing wines. Production is slightly lower for the RBS and the T6, and slightly higher for the Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III. The tasting notes for the 2007s are essentially the same as the 2006s’, except there is even more seamlessness, very projected, flamboyant aromatics, stunning attacks, mid-palates, and finishes, and glorious levels of crème de cassis, smoked herbs, licorice, cedar, and black fruits. The 2007s are more grapy and less nuanced than the 2006s, but they are still in barrel, where I anticipate they will gain weight and precision. Most are prodigious examples of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the single greatest vineyards in Napa, Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard. It would appear that the Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III is not far behind. The 2007s should be drinkable when released, and last for 25-30+ years. As I wrote last year, this is a fascinating portfolio of 100% Cabernet Sauvignons all of them from Beckstoffer-owned vineyards, including the Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville, and one wine from the Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III in Rutherford. All the wines are aged in 100% new French oak, usually a combination of Darnajou and Taransaud barrels, with a higher percentage of Darnajou used for the T6, CCS, Old Sparky, and Schrader. The different bottlings are essentially based on specific blocks and/or specific clones of Cabernet Sauvignon. In short, I think the 2006s are arguably the finest wines of the vintage, and the 2007s appear to be as profound. Given the fact that these wines seem to put on weight once they are in bottle, the 2007s may eclipse the extraordinary 2006s produced by Carol and Fred Schrader, and their brilliant winemaker, Thomas Brown. Total production of these cuvees is just over 1,500 cases, with the average for each offering 200-250 cases. Readers should keep in mind that all of these wines are aged in 100% new French oak for 20 months, bottled with no clarification, and possess alcohols ranging from 14.5% to 14.9%. This was one of the most exciting tastings I have done in 2008!