Wine reviews
When you have extremely conscientious owners (Carol and Fred Schrader) combined with world-class winemaking (Thomas Rivers Brown), and an unimpeachable source for grapes (the first-growth terroir of the Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard), it should not be surprising that outstanding wines are produced. All three of these 100% Cabernet Sauvignon cuvees emerge from that magical tenderloin spot in the Oakville Corridor. You could probably have these three wines on twenty different occasions and reach a different qualitative order, but there is no doubt that any of the wines could be your favorite on any given day -- they are that spectacular. During this period, all three were aged in 100% new French oak (which continues), all Darnajou barrels. The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard was the tightest of this trio, with an inky/opaque purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of black truffles, licorice, asphalt, barbecue smoke, and oodles of blueberry and black currant fruit. Fullbodied, with striking purity and a layered, multidimensional texture, its youthful vigor and exuberance suggest a 2-3 year-old wine, rather than one that is a decade old. Assuming you can defer your gratification (and I really cannot offer any justification to do so), this wine will improve for at least another 5-10 years, and last for an additional 15+. Like its siblings, this is a Napa Valley legend. The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon RBS is one of those utterly profound wines that elicit oohs and aahs. Once you put your nose in the glass, you know you are in the presence of one of the world's greatest wines. Aromas of pen ink, forest floor, spring flowers, blue and black fruits, sweet camphor and subtle charcoal emerge from this inky-purple-colored, extremely youthful 2002. As it hits the palate, not a component is out of place. The alcohol, acidity, wood and tannin are all perfectly assembled in a masterful presentation of balance, power, finesse, complexity and potential longevity. The wine's expansiveness, mid-palate (which seems like a skyscraper), and the awesome, nearly 60-second long finish are the stuff of wine legend and lore. Forget it for 4-5 years and drink it over the following 25-30 years. The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Old Sparky (which is only available in magnums) is a wine of great intensity as well. More similar than dissimilar to its two siblings, it seems to be backward. If I did not know its age, I would have guessed it had just been bottled. Stunningly pure notes of graphite, blueberries, crème de cassis, and a hint of toasty oak soar from the glass as if propelled by jet propulsion. In the mouth, the wine is full-bodied with high tannins, but nothing is out of balance. Tasting from magnum makes for a slightly younger showing of the wine, but this is unquestionably a brilliant wine. It, too, needs to be forgotten for 7-10 years, and drunk over the following 25