Wine reviews
The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard is one of the greatest young Cabernets I have tasted from California. Believe it or not, it reminds me of the way the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild tasted at age two or three. It is a classic from the tenderloin of Napa Valley – the Oakville corridor. This 650-case cuvee has a dense purple color to the rim and an extraordinary nose of cedar, licorice, spice box, and gobs of creme de cassis liqueur-like notes. The wine has tremendous opulence, massive body, but unbelievable intensity, balance, and overall harmony. There is considerable tannin and acidity that offers vibrancy and delineation, but all this is seamlessly integrated into this modern-day classic. This is a fabulous wine made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in 100% new oak, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030. This wine requires patience. (Note: this wine was rated 99 when the review was printed in The Wine Advocate but the rating was subsequently raised to 100 as posted here.) A potentially perfect offering, the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyard To-Kalon reveals the same inky/purple color as the 2001, as well as a classic perfume of creme de cassis intermixed with cedar, licorice, and spice box. Boasting nearly immortal levels of concentration and intensity, it is an amazing tour de force in winemaking, proof of just how extraordinary this vineyard site can be. It will require 5-8 years of cellaring, and should last for 25+ years. A modern day Napa legend in the making.
One of the greatest young Cabernet Sauvignons I have ever tasted is the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard (which I also rated 100 when it was first bottled). This wine has hardly changed since its release. Still incredibly youthful, it reveals a blue/black color along with notes of black currants, camphor, graphite, high quality unsmoked cigar tobacco, blackberries and a touch of oak. Full-bodied and multilayered with terrific texture and richness as well as a 60-second finish, this young, exuberant, slightly flamboyant classic offers an interesting contrast in style with other top producers (such as Schrader Cellars) that also farm parcels of the Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard. Like most young Cabernets, this wine can be drunk now because of the sweetness of its tannins, but it is a good decade away from full maturity. It should last until 2040-2050. Bravo!