Wine reviews
A seamless effort, rich and layered, offering generous tiers of red and black fruits, spice and floral scents, and a base of loamy earth—scented tannins. The finish offers cascading olive, herb and savory details that linger and gain depth while retaining subtlety. Drink now through 2028. 988 cases made. – JL
Of the three Beckstoffer Vineyards, it’s pretty much a joyride as to which one readers may prefer. The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard (readers may remember the 2002 merited a 100-point score) has a beautiful blueberry and blackberry fruit note, a hint of incense, charcoal, an opaque purple color, full-bodied opulence and again that first-growth quality, richness, complexity and intensity. I’m not sure this is as compelling as the 2002, but it’s not far away. This is a magnificent, multi-dimensional, skyscraper-like Cabernet Sauvignon to drink over the next 15-20 years. From one of Northern California’s most accomplished and respected wine consultants and producers, the 2012s and 2013s will create high expectations, and readers are unlikely to be disappointed by Paul Hobbs and his team. – RP
The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard’s nose of crème de cassis, licorice, forest floor and espresso bean was followed by a full-bodied, opulent, round, generously endowed wine with no hard edges or flaws, just endless depth. It’s going to be extra special, but it is too early to say whether it will achieve the perfection of its 2002 sibling. The finish lasts 45-50 seconds, and this cuvee has 20-25 years of life ahead of it. Looking at several 2012 barrel samples reinforces the true greatness of this vintage in Napa Valley. The first-growth Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard in the hands of Paul Hobbs can be magical and I had high expectations for the 2012 version. – RP