Wine reviews
Intense and concentrated, if a bit muddled in its delivery of earthy currant, graphite, mineral and sage. Full-bodied, dense and firmly structured, with tight tannins, this offers a touch of savory herb and underbrush. Needs time. Best from 2010 through 2017. 872 cases made.-- JL
Readers looking for a potentially perfect effort (a la the 2002) should get in line now for some of the 710 cases of the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard. This utterly awesome Cabernet Sauvignon reveals classic, pure crème de cassis notes interwoven with subtle smoke, truffle, licorice, cedar, and spice aromas. Full-bodied with sweet tannin, good acidity (which provides laser-like focus), and a substantial, broad, savory style, the wine cascades over the palate with extraordinary richness, but neither heaviness nor astringency. From one of Napa’s most extraordinary vineyards, this is compelling Napa Cabernet Sauvignon at its finest. It will drink easily for 30+ years. Paul Hobbs is one of the most brilliant consultants working in California, and he is well-placed in Argentina with a number of projects there as well. His empire is in the Russian River, and it continues to expand, with a bevy of artisanal hand-made Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Cabernet Sauvignons, and more recently, Syrahs. These are full-throttle wines that merit serious attention. He clearly fared very well with his 2006 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir programs, and seems to have hit veritable home runs with the brilliance of these wines as well as his Cabernets and Syrahs in 2007. Paul Hobbs’ 2007 Chardonnays are crisp, full-bodied, intensely flavorful wines with higher than usual levels of vibrancy and freshness because of the acid profiles and cool growing season. In addition to the great success he enjoys with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, Hobbs also hits all the high notes with his Cabernet Sauvignons. There are five offerings, starting with his Napa bottling, one of the better generic efforts in the marketplace. Another fabulous vintage for Paul Hobbs, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignons may ultimately come close to resembling the great successes he has had, including his brilliant 2001s and 2002s.
Not surprisingly, the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard is a profound Cabernet Sauvignon. The equivalent of a Bordeaux first-growth Pauillac, it boasts abundant quantities of crème de cassis, lead pencil shavings, cedar, and subtle smoky oak and espresso notes. Atypically sexy for a 2006, it is full-bodied with oodles of concentrated black fruits, stunning purity and length, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. It should hit its apogee in 3-4 years, and last for three decades or more. Paul Hobbs is one of the most brilliant consultants working in California, and he is well-placed in Argentina with a number of projects there as well. His empire is in the Russian River, and it continues to expand, with a bevy of artisanal hand-made Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Cabernet Sauvignons, and more recently, Syrahs. These are full-throttle wines that merit serious attention. He clearly fared very well with his 2006 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir programs, and seems to have hit veritable home runs with the brilliance of these wines as well as his Cabernets and Syrahs in 2007. Paul Hobbs’ 2007 Chardonnays are crisp, full-bodied, intensely flavorful wines with higher than usual levels of vibrancy and freshness because of the acid profiles and cool growing season. In addition to the great success he enjoys with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, Hobbs also hits all the high notes with his Cabernet Sauvignons. There are five offerings, starting with his Napa bottling, one of the better generic efforts in the marketplace. Another fabulous vintage for Paul Hobbs, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignons may ultimately come close to resembling the great successes he has had, including his brilliant 2001s and 2002s.
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignons all had strong showings. Slightly more fruit-forward than the 2005s were at a similar stage, they may be more charming when bottled, and should easily last for 15 or more years, with the Beckstoffer To Kalon living for three decades or more. The inky/ruby/purple-hued, blockbuster 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard represents Oakvilles answer to Bordeauxs first-growth Mouton Rothschild/Latour. This is a great corridor for Cabernet Sauvignon, and the wines often possess those Pauillac-like cedar, crème de cassis, and blackberry characteristics intermixed with notions of lead pencil shavings, high quality cigar tobacco, and spice box. The 2006 is a dense, full-bodied effort with magnificent fruit and concentration. Defining a top Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, It will be drinkable in 3-4 years, and last for three decades.
Opaque purple. Deeply scented nose offers an array of dark berry preserve aromas complicated by spicecake and dark chocolate. Broad and impressively concentrated, with chewy cassis and plum jam flavors supported by youthfully gripping tannins. Smoothes out with air and finishes with impressive clarity and lift. This packs serious punch without coming across as outsized. (JR) 93-95