Wine reviews
From the first-growth vineyard of Beckstoffer To-Kalon, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon finished at 14.9% natural alcohol. It boasts a nearly impenetrable looking blue/purple color, not quite the weight and majesty of the perfect 2002, but gorgeous purity and creme de cassis, floral and spice box notes. The wine starts off somewhat restrained by To-Kalon standards, but it opens and builds dramatically and impressively on the palate. Full-bodied with velvety, well-integrated tannins and wood, adequate acidity, and a fleshy, succulent personality, it is another hedonistic and intellectual turn-on. As we have come to expect from anybody who deals with fruit from this vineyard, this is sensational stuff. I often wonder if grower Andy Beckstoffer’s greatest talent is not in growing grapes, but choosing to whom he sells them? This 2003 should drink well for 15-20 more years. -RP
Supple and elegantly styled, with rich flavors built around a core of creamy oak, ripe currant, black cherry and herbal sage flavors that are intense and complex without being heavy. Finishes with a tight focus and rich tannins. Best from 2008 through 2012. 553 cases made. – J. L
After the perfect 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard (that’s right, I raised my score by a point), the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon comes across as slightly more mortal. One of the outstanding Cabernet Sauvignons of the vintage, it tastes like a California concoction of La Mission Haut Brion and Montrose. Its deep purple color is followed by a sumptuously pure nose of sweet scorched earth, hot rocks, crème de cassis, graphite, and charcoal. The tannin is sweet, but elevated. Full-bodied and powerful, with 20-25 years of life, this spectacularly rich dense, multi-layered effort oozes classic Cabernet Sauvignon varietal character. (release date 9/06)