Wine reviews
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard shows lovely intensity in an understated style that is compelling. Grilled herbs, tobacco, spices and licorice are some of the notes that develop in the glass, adding complexity to the fruit. The George III will benefit from another year or two in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2013- 2021. These are the first wines I have tasted from Myriad Cellars, Mike Smith’s new project. I have a slight preference for 2008 versus 2009 when it comes to the Cabernets, as the 2008s seem to have a touch more delineation and structure than the 2009s, which come across as a bit more forward. Both vintages are going to be a lot of fun to watch over the coming years.
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III (F Block) is all about pure power and muscle. A blast of dark fruit hits the palate as this immediate, juicy wine shows off its open, accessible personality. As good as this is, it doesn’t have the polish of the best wines here. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Mike and Leah Smith’s Myriad Cellars is an up and coming winery worth keeping an eye on. Mike Smith also makes the wines at Carter. I have every reason to think he will establish the same level of quality here. -AG