Wine reviews
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III offers an extraordinary bouquet of crème de cassis, scorched earth, and burning embers as well as full-bodied power, velvety tannins, and exceptional density and richness. This superb wine exhibits layered extravagance and sweet tannins, a rarity in this vintage. It is already drinking well. As I wrote last year, this is a fascinating portfolio of 100% Cabernet Sauvignons all of them from Beckstoffer-owned vineyards, including the Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville, and one wine from the Beckstoffer Vineyard Georges III in Rutherford. All the wines are aged in 100% new French oak, usually a combination of Darnajou and Taransaud barrels, with a higher percentage of Darnajou used for the T6, CCS, Old Sparky, and Schrader. The different bottlings are essentially based on specific blocks and/or specific clones of Cabernet Sauvignon. In short, I think the 2006s are arguably the finest wines of the vintage, and the 2007s appear to be as profound. Given the fact that these wines seem to put on weight once they are in bottle, the 2007s may eclipse the extraordinary 2006s produced by Carol and Fred Schrader, and their brilliant winemaker, Thomas Brown. Total production of these cuvees is just over 1,500 cases, with the average for each offering 200-250 cases. Readers should keep in mind that all of these wines are aged in 100% new French oak for 20 months, bottled with no clarification, and possess alcohols ranging from 14.5% to 14.9%. This was one of the most exciting tastings I have done in 2008!
Seductive in its overlay of rich, concentrated flavors, with enticing jazzy toasty, creamy oak draped over rich currant, black cherry and blackberry fruit that's tight and focused. Ends with mouthcoating ripe tannins that have great traction. Best from 2010 through 2018. 125 cases made. –JL
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer George III Vineyard is one of the few wines that sees only 50% new Darnajou barrels along with 50% new Taransaud barrels. It exhibits beautiful tarry, smoky notes intermixed with crème de cassis, blackberries, licorice, and earth. A full-bodied, powerful, beautifully textured, layered, opulent effort, it should drink well for two decades or more.