Wine reviews
I’ll keep my notes on the 2009s brief, but as one can see, these are among the superstars of the vintage. I do not envision any of them meriting a perfect score, which will finally break the trifecta of perfection for the CCS, but these will all be mid to upper-90 point wines because they are that good. As Thomas Brown explained to me, it was a year of higher yields, cooler temperatures, and virtually all of the vineyards were harvested before the deluge arrived in mid-October. The 2009s are all made from the same Clones as the 2008s. I thought the three top cuvees were the T6, CCS and Schrader, but the RBS looks profound as well. The only wine that is perhaps lighter than expected is the George III. The 2009s should be more evolved, gorgeous to drink out of the gate, and last for 15-20 years as opposed to 30-40.
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon CCS Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard comes across as big, tight and powerful. This is one of the more reticent, inward of the 2009 Schraders. Tar, licorice, menthol and violets are some of the notes that wrap around the intense, virile finish. Today the CCS is a touch compact. It will merit a higher score if the fruit fills out a little more. CCS is clone 4 from the C1 block. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.
Dense and chewy, offering edgy tannins but also a wealth of complex flavors built around dark berry, mocha, cedar, spice and tobacco leaf, with a fantastic aftertaste. A rustic expression of To Kalon. Best from 2014 through 2030. 290 cases made. –JL