Wine reviews
Flaunts its rich red currant, black cherry and blackberry fruit, with touches of cedar, sandalwood and tobacco. Fullbodied, long and persistent, topped off by melted brownie and black licorice. Best from 2015 through 2030. From California.—J.L.
The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Clone 337 is a deceptively mid-weight wine. As is often the case, the 337 clone in To Kalon yields a style of Cabernet Sauvignon that is intensely perfumed, graceful and totally impeccable. Exotic red berries, flowers and spices meld together beautifully in this poised, gracious Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2029. This is a dazzling set of wines from Tor Kenward and his long-time winemaker Jeff Ames. Frankly, I could have spent an entire afternoon delving further into these fabulous wines. The 2009 Cabernets capture the best qualities of this refined, polished vintage, but the 2010s, which I tasted from barrel, are potentially even better.
Good deep ruby-red. Black cherry, cassis, violet and graphite on the nose; a real essence of To Kalon. Silky on entry, then pliant, glossy and impressively concentrated in the middle, with perfectly integrated acidity giving lift to the mid-palate. Really stuffed with material but not a bit overextracted. Finishes with lush, suave tannins and outstanding length. Still an infant but this should nonetheless offer early pleasure.