Wine reviews
A barrel sample expected to age for 22 months in 78% new French oak, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Lithology Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard is very deep garnet-purple in color and a little reduced at this nascent juncture, offering a peek at earthy notions of damp soil, truffles and tree bark with a core of blackcurrants and black cherries plus a touch of tapenade. The palate is medium to full-bodied with ripe, grainy tannins and plenty of expressive fruit, finishing earthy. To be released in the spring of 2020. – LPB
Fruit for this was harvested from September 25-29, fermented in oak, stainless and puncheon and aged in 82% new oak. Very deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Lithology Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard, containing 5% Petit Verdot, is a tad broody to begin, reluctantly revealing black fruit notions of stewed plums, blackcurrant cordial, dried bay leaves and tree bark with wafts of truffles and iron ore. Full-bodied, the palate has densely packed, taut, muscular black fruits and tons of earthy accents, supported by ripe, fine-grained tannins, finishing long and wonderfully evocative of this incredible vineyard. Bravo! 77 cases were made. – LP
A ripe, polished and bold wine, with creamed plum and blackberry fruit flavors gliding through, infused with smoldering black tea, singed alder and bittersweet coca notes. The cocoa edge adds a nice textural element on the rich finish. A lovely example of the not-shy style. Best from 2021 through 2032. – J.M.
A ripe, polished and bold wine, with creamed plum and blackberry fruit flavors gliding through, infused with smoldering black tea, singed alder and bittersweet cocoa notes. The cocoa edge adds a nice textural element on the rich finish. A lovely example of the not-shy style. Best from 2021 through 2032. 77 cases made. – J.M.
Flowery incense, tobacco leaf, crème de cassis, currants, and scorched earth notes all dominate the bouquet of the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Lithology Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard. With classic To Kalon sexiness as well as full-bodied power and richness, it stays beautifully balanced and offers ripe tannins as well as a great finish. It's another brilliant wine from this estate that’s up with the top handful of wines in the vintage. – JD